Target Panel Build Tutorial

Going to break this into two main sections: Full sized and Half Size FSR Target Panels. I recommend reading all of this first (both sections) before attempting anything.

Please refer to  Section VII of the Ruleset thread for mounting guidelines. Make sure you route your target panel cables away from sources of EMF (gun motors are a notorious culprit). Also, having your target panels mounted too closely to your guns can cause problem. Make sure you test firing and running around with your scoring system mounted to make sure you won't have problems at the competition.

Ensure all cables and target panels are securely fastened, target panels falling off will count as 1 point of damage. If a cable falls out you'll start taking damage very quickly due to it being an open collector. I recommend using a heavy duty velcro or even 3M Dual Lock/Radio Shack Super Lock velcro (be careful when using this stuff if you need to remove a target panel, it has a LOT of grip).

Full Size FSR Target Panels 

1) Here are the parts for a Full Size Panel. Learn them, love them. The black ABS is your back plate, the clear lexan is the front plate that protects the FSRs. FSRs go in between the black ABS and clear lexan plates. The PCB attachs to the back plate. But don't start building yet! Let's go over everything step by step.  [1]

2) Prepare the lexan plates by peeling off the plastic protective film. Set these lexans plates aside for later.  [2]

3) If you have back plates that have a textured side, the FSRs are mounted on the smooth side.   [3]

4) First we need to mount the FSRs to the black ABS back plates. Peel them ONE AT A TIME.  [4]

5) Very carefully align the first FSR. Use the edges of the back plate to line it up correctly. Please be very careful during this, you do not want to misalign the FSRs and have them hanging off the edge/too far in from the edge. Once you stick these on, they do NOT come off, so you only have one shot.   [5]

6) Your first FSR should look like this.  [6]

7) Peel & prepare the second FSR. Align this with the top edge (in this pic) of the back plate, and the center axis right up against the edge of the first (already mounted) FSR.   [7][8]

8) It should look like this if done correctly. If it doesn't look like this, cry. You've disappointed your ancestors.  [9]

9) Carefully align the 3rd FSR. Again, make sure its snug up against the adjacent FSR, and the bottom (in this pic) edge of the back plate.  [10][11]

10) Carefully align the 4th FSR. Make sure its snug up against the adjacent FSRs.  [12][13]

11) These be the parts for your FSR PCB. Word.  [14]

12) Install your components as shown. Note, resistors may be tan or blue, 4.7k-5.1k resistance. Solder the components.  [15][16]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">13) Apply double sided sticky tape (not included, you cheap bastards). Make sure you use some high-strength stuff. DO NOT ATTACH THE PCB YET.  [17]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">14) Without actually attaching the PCB, carefully insert all 4 FSR leads into the PCB as shown. Take your time with this, and be gentle.   [18]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">15) Again, before attaching the PCB to the back plate, carefully solder the FSR leads to the PCB. Use low temperatures (375F) and do not hold the iron on any connection for more than 3 seconds. You will melt the FSR connections if you get too heavy handed.  [19]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">16) Very carefully bend the connections flat. CAREFUL. Be a gentle lover.  [20]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">17) Attach the PCB to the back plate with steady applied pressure.  [21]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">18) Voila!  [22]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">19) Line up the lexan plate.  [23]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">20) Use tape (electrical is what I use) of your choice to attach the lexan plate, along the edge and around to the back plate.  [24][25]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">21) Attach velcro to the PCB in preparation for mounting.   [26][27]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">22) Look! Cable! Ready! I highly recommend putting a dab of glue on header/cable connection here to make sure it doesn't wiggle loose. You can remove the buckle from the cable if you like. The side that plugs into the transponder needs to be unbuckled.

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">Please note S, V, G. <span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">S = Yellow/White, V = Red, G = Black. [28]

Half Size (Split-Option) FSR Target Panels 

'''NOTE: These instructions are for Half-Size FSR Target Panels that are used for the 'split option'. This method utilizes a single PCB that is split in two, and a tether between the two half-size panels, which are then connected to the MWScore Transponder using a single cable.  '''If you have questions, ask. Again, read everything before proceeding, if you're building a biped make sure you understand the difference.'

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">1) Here are the parts for a Half Size Panel. Learn them, love them. The black ABS is your back plate, the clear lexan is the front plate that protects the FSRs. FSRs go in between the black ABS and clear lexan plates. The PCB attachs to the back plate. But don't start building yet! Let's go over everything step by step.  [29]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">2) Use a ruler to score the PCB, several times. You don't need to press hard, just apply firm pressure and score it 5-6 times. You should be able to line it up to the edge of a table and snap it with your hands. I recommend sanding the scored edge so it doesn't get fiberglass fibers everywhere.  [30][31]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">2) Prepare the lexan plates by peeling off the plastic protective film. Set these lexans plates aside for later.  [32]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">3) If you have back plates that have a textured side, the FSRs are mounted on the smooth side.  [33]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">4) First we need to mount the FSRs to the black ABS back plates. Peel them ONE AT A TIME.  [34]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">5) Very carefully align the first FSR. Use the edges of the back plate to line it up correctly. Please be very careful during this, you do not want to misalign the FSRs and have them hanging off the edge/too far in from the edge. Once you stick these on, they do NOT come off, so you only have one shot.   [35]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">6) Align and mount the 2nd FSR.  [36][37][38]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">7) Place the components as follows.  [39]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">8) Solder them.   [40][41]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">9) Apply double sided sticky tape (not included, you cheap bastards). Make sure you use some high-strength stuff. DO NOT ATTACH THE PCB YET.  [42]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">10) Without actually attaching the PCB, carefully insert 2 FSR leads into the PCB as shown. Take your time with this, and be gentle. Repeat for the other side.  [43][44]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">11) Again, before attaching the PCB to the back plate, carefully solder the FSR leads to the PCB. Use low temperatures (375F) and do not hold the iron on any connection for more than 3 seconds. You will melt the FSR connections if you get too heavy handed.  [45]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">12) Very carefully bend the connections flat. CAREFUL. Be a gentle lover.  [46]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">13) Attach the PCB to the back plate with steady applied pressure.  [47]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">14) Attach the lexan plate to the front using the same taping method described in the last section. [48]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">15) Velcro, do it.  [49]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">16) This is how the cabling works for the split-option Half-Size FSR Target Panel set. You can shorten the tether cable between the two panels as much as you need. I highly recommend putting a dab of glue on header/cable connection here to make sure it doesn't wiggle loose. You can remove the buckle from the cable if you like. The side that plugs into the transponder needs to be unbuckled.

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">Please note S, V, G. <span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">S = Yellow/White, V = Red, G = Black. [50]

MWScore Transponder Pinout 

[51]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">We do not recommend powering these directly from an 11.1v (12.6v max) 3S Lipo. They can be powered directly off of a 5v pin from the arbotix without issue however.

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">Please note: If you ordered Xbees you will need to program them appropriately. Each one of you has a unique ID # (it's written on your MWScore transponder), this is important when setting up your Xbees.

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">Xbee info:

ATBD = 5 (38400bps) ATID = 6200 MY = 6200 + TRANSPONDER_ID_NUMBER (written on the bottom of each transponder) DL = 6201 CH = c

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;line-height:normal;">If you don't have a method of programming your Xbees, bring them to Robogames and we'll get you programmed before your qualification round. Make sure to get this done early, it's your responsibility.

Wiring examples: [52][53]